Jeff O.
Yelp
After four years of eating vegetarian or pescatarian, I've mostly given up on ordering protein at salad spots and grain bowl joints, because the typical options -- steam-tray tofu, Impossible/Beyond ground beef, extra-well-done fish filets -- are usually tiresome and unenjoyable. At The Migrant Kitchen, I nonetheless surprised myself by ordering a salmon bowl, which then surprised me further by being straight-up delicious.
We're talking about a juicy salmon steak with crisp skin and a za'atar spread, which had been added with precision to the salmon but not to anything else in the bowl, as if this were a table-service restaurant where the seafood was being plated with care. Everything else in this bowl, including al dente cauliflower and roasted potatoes sprinkled with sumac, was also impressive and didn't seem like it had been sitting under a heat lamp for hours on end, despite obviously not being the sort of stuff that is cooked to order.
Also tried three of their empanadas (cheese, cheese with mushrooms/spinach, and vegan mushroom/spinach). The fillings were simple and solid, and the shells had a just-right Goldilocks vibe -- not too greasy and gutbomby, but also not too healthy. Side sauces (whipped garlic toum, herbed yogurt, salsa verde) were good, albeit unremarkable.
Ultimately, I can't quite say that The Migrant Kitchen has made me forget four years of mediocre-protein trauma. But it's certainly started the healing process.
P.S. The teenage cashier guy who rang me up was super friendly and helpful, which is not exactly an everyday occurrence at comparable takeout joints, and I hope he gets a raise.