Rahul P.
Google
A Bihari Feast in Hauz Khas: The Potbelly Experience
There's something rather wonderful about discovering a restaurant that exists not merely to feed you, but to tell you a story. The newly opened Potbelly Bihari Kitchen in Hauz Khas is precisely such a place—a thoughtful, ambitious attempt to showcase the culinary traditions of Bihar, a cuisine that remains woefully underrepresented in Delhi's dining landscape.
The restaurant is the brainchild of Puja Sahu and Mamta Sahu, two restaurateurs who have undertaken what can only be described as a labor of love. Their vision is refreshingly straightforward: to transport the magic of ancestral kitchens from Muzaffarpur, Bihar, directly to your plate. It's an undertaking that requires not just culinary skill but genuine conviction, and from what I experienced during my recent visit, they've succeeded admirably.
What strikes you immediately about Potbelly is the authenticity of intent. These aren't recipes cobbled together from cookbooks or half-remembered family stories. Each dish has been handed down through generations, carefully curated to offer something genuinely special. The Sahus hope—and it's a noble hope—that their food might challenge some of the unfortunate stereotypes that persist about Bihar, offering instead a flavor adventure that is both unique and faithful to the region.
The Starters Set the Tone
I began with the Saboodana Basket, and what an opening it was. Tapioca puffs, fried to an impossible crispness, arrived alongside parwal chokha and tomato chutney. The textural contrast was delightful—the shatter of the puff giving way to the earthy, comforting chokha. It's the sort of dish that makes you sit up and pay attention.
The Keema Baggia followed—delicate pockets of rice flour concealing spiced minced mutton, served with tomato chokha and coriander chutney. There's an elegance to this preparation that belies its rustic origins. The rice flour casing is light yet sturdy, and the filling carries just enough heat to keep things interesting without overwhelming the palate.
Mains That Matter
No visit to a Bihari restaurant would be complete without Litti Chokha, and Potbelly's version honors the classic. Wheat balls stuffed with sattu arrive with dal and mashes of aubergine and potato. It's hearty, warming food—the sort that sticks to your ribs in the best possible way. The sattu filling has a nutty depth, and the accompanying mashes provide different textural and flavor notes that keep each bite interesting.
The Madhubani Thali deserves special mention. Traditional aloo-channa dal sabzi is served with both sattu pooris and onion pooris, alongside ol pickle, teesi (flax seed) chutney, and aloo pudina raita. A thali is only as good as its balance, and this one achieves that crucial equilibrium. The teesi chutney, in particular, is something I'd never encountered before—earthy, nutty, and utterly compelling.
Sweet Conclusions and Spirited Creations
Dessert was Raspua with Kulfi, a combination that worked beautifully. The raspua—those golden, syrup-soaked fritters—paired wonderfully with the cool, creamy kulfi. It's indulgent without being cloying, which is no small achievement.
The cocktail program at Potbelly also deserves attention. The Kanji ka Quila combines fermented carrot and beets kanji with peach concentrate and clarified tequila—an inspired marriage of traditional preparation and modern mixology. The Khatta Minta, with its salt-preserved nimbu cordial, ginger ale, cranberry juice, mint, and vodka, is equally well-conceived. These aren't cocktails that simply nod to Indian flavors; they're built around them.
The Larger Picture
What Puja and Mamta Sahu have created at Potbelly goes beyond good food, though the food is very good indeed. They've opened a window into a culinary tradition that deserves far more attention than it receives. Every dish arrives, as they put it, with "immense gratitude and love," and you can taste it.
