Marie B.
Yelp
I made my reservation via Tock in late October for my anticipated visit to Atoma (12/9/23).
I had scouted out the former location of trailblazer chef/owner Maria Hines's Tilth in Seattle's Wallingford neighborhood. I wondered if that cozy ambiance experienced 17 years ago would be somewhat retained.
I was dining solo and going into this meal without any pre-conceived notions. I never attended a previous pop up or soft opening. Plus not familiar with chef/owner Johnny Courtney aside from the press coverage that he was the executive sous chef at Canlis. Global, creative, contemporary, nostalgic, seasonal approaches gives a wide berth of potential cuisine at Atoma.
Traffic was absolutely dreadful on I-5S yesterday evening, that I had to detour and meander by Green Lake to get to the west end of N45th in Wallingford. Thankfully, I found street parking within steps of Atoma's entrance with ten minutes to spare. Lovely, smiling person welcomed me at the reception stand. I felt some of the stress leaving my system, but the fairly loud overall din and music in the dining room kind of kept that adrenalin mode hovering as I was seated for my 6:45pm reservation.
The overall attire was relaxed-layered-NW comfort, especially on this cold, rainy evening. The main dining room and bar counter seating was mostly full. There is also additional counter seating flanking both sides of the entrance. Retained the nice Craftsman interior with olive tones. The bartender and kitchen staff were hopping as I glanced around. My wait person provided the run down and gave helpful recommendations. However, I was told that there was no chef's tasting menu available that evening.
I started with a cocktail, Starr Sutherland ($16) while I further perused the menu. This cocktail comprised with Plantation 3 star, Clement Rhum Agricole, pineapple syrup, and a lime wedge. Not overly strong, but I do remember why is this glass so wet? It left annoying water rings on the table, that I had to wipe it away with my dinner napkin.
I ordered one each of the Rosette Cookie ($7) and Radish Cake ($9) to start. The former I've only had sweet rosettes, this was a dusted unique savory presentation with Walla Walla onion jam. Kind of crumbled using a fork and knife, but then didn't want to look uncouth eating it with my fingers. Despite the caramelization, the flavor was a bit muted. The latter had a more forward pronounced flavor from fermented radish, geoduck, and clam belly aioli. This woke up my palate with anticipation.
I was inadvertently brought the Pork Collar ($38) - looked great, but not what I had ordered. This was swiftly noted by my wait person and taken back to the kitchen. After a brief lull, I was brought the proper Black Cod entree ($34) which had citrus roasted salsify and grilled greens. The small black cod fillet was perfectly cooked, crisp skin and moist fish. I was glad for the spoon because that black cod beurre was delicious. This easily could be a soup component.
I wasn't full from dinner, so there was room for dessert. After glancing at the dessert menu though, nothing was compelling for me to order. The prices ranged from $9 to $18 so I passed and awaited my check instead.
My reservation gave a two hour allotment. I was able to wrap it up within 45-60 minutes dining solo. This was a long awaited dinner reservation, but left still hungry and a bit disappointed after spending nearly $73 with tax & tip.
Note: Tock charges a $1 handling fee and $25 reservation fee which is later applied towards the final bill. There's also a 3 day advance notice for any reschedules or cancellations. Just saying.
Pros:
*Lovely woman at the reception/host stand. Offered coat check.
*Knowledgeable wait person. Another person kept my water glass filled.
*Beautiful handmade dishes, nice dinner napkin, and sturdy flatware.
*Nice presentation of menu items.
Cons:
*Really loud with overall acoustics and overhead music. Glad I was dining solo due to the din, thankfully no convo to compete with.
*Wet cocktail glass...I dislike water rings, but that's just me.
*Rough bottom surfaces of the saucers scratches the table top. Unknown if that's the patina they eventually want.
*Pricey for the diminutive portions served. Dessert menu prices were also high.
I wished I had passed on the weak cocktail and opted for another menu item instead.
I should have savored a dessert instead at nearby Paper Cake Shop (open Wed-Sun 2-9pm).
Instead of getting a seafood sundae or bowl at nearby Minato or a Dick's cheeseburger to supplement, traffic heading back northbound enabled me to buy and cook additional protein at home.
Also, I prefer the black cod sake kazu from Ray's in Ballard/Shilshoe or purchased directly to cook at home from Kuzma's Fish Market in Edmonds.
I was thankful for the opportunity to dine at Atoma and wish them continued success.
Would I return? Maybe for a chef's tasting menu, but not for cocktails, a la carte items, or dessert.