Nicole B.
Yelp
I had been following Towa on Instagram since they opened last year. The concept sounded like the kind of restaurant I want to support: independent, chef owned, Japanese cuisine, sushi, seasonal. Towa describes itself as "Contemporary Kaiseki by Chef Shirai." Chef Shirai is Masaya Shirai, owner, head sushi chef, who was basically my private Omakase chef for my 5:30pm counter reservation.
I knew that I loved to eat Omakase even before Omakase was everywhere in Manhattan (which is a wondrous and wonderful thing these days!!). Only in the past year have I discovered Kaiseki, which is a traditional, multi course, hyper seasonal Japanese meal. It is a beautifully traditional approach with set courses (i.e., sashimi course, sushi course, chawanmushi course, Donabe Rice course, dessert course, etc.).
Let me take a moment to talk about Donabe Rice. I'm not willing to say that I have one favorite food. But if I had to choose just one dish to eat every day for the rest of my life? Donabe Rice. Hands Down. (Donabe Rice is rice cooked in a traditional - hundreds of years of tradition - clay pot and then mixed with a variety of AMAZING seasonal ingredients.) At Towa you can order your own pot of Donabe Rice (they need 45 min to prepare it). I feel like is reason enough to go to Towa!
Anyway, Kaiseki is the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine. And I LOVE IT. But it is still not that common in NYC. So Towa had my attention and I was pretty excited to try a spot that is blending Kaiseki and Omakase.
So the reason my Omakase service was almost entirely "private" is that I booked for the earliest seating on a Tuesday and turned out to the only person in the restaurant for a good hour. Let me just say the service was excellent and attentive. Even with just me and the entire staff the vibe in Towa was really, really good. When you enter Towa the first thing is the Omakase counter, beyond which is the dining room. Chef Shirai, behind the counter, can see the entire room and knows what is going on in his restaurant.
I too own a small restaurant and am the cook and can see my entire counter and room (MUCH smaller...) from my position at the kitchen pass through window. It is, IMO, the perfect model for an independent owned restaurant. The owner IS the manager. Get it? We set the tone. Chef Shirai sets a great tone.
The set up in Towa is pretty genius, behind the sushi bar is everything the servers need for beverage service etc. So the serving team doesn't really ever leave the floor except to maybe pick up kitchen items (kitchen is at the back of the dining room). There is a good, multi page, Sake menu and I had a lovely bottle.
My meal was excellent. Everything was delicious, beautifully presented. Sushi pieces were gorgeous. Kaiseki type courses were delicious, creative and varied in flavors, textures, mouthfeel and seasonal ingredients. Serving vessels and utensils are all carefully selected and really just wonderful. Don't be mistaken. What your food is served in and on does make a difference and is an integral part of Kaiseki. Chef Shirai's attention to detail and service is evident in everything you touch in Towa. Down to the ADORABLE tiny, iron teapot that serves as your chopstick rest.
As I said, I was the only person in Towa until about 6:15am and then everyone else showed up (presumably because other people were actually working and living their lives prior to dinner). This is not a spot for tourists. I'm going to venture a guess that I was the only non NYC resident dining that night. Also? Towa has a a serious Japanese following. The two men who sat beside me at the counter were still in their business suits and at least one clearly only spoke Japanese. The only language I could hear after the dining room filled up was, actually, Japanese. There was even, somehow, a woman wearing a full Kimono...??? (I have no idea..#nyc)
I say that to say that if Japanese people are coming for Chef Shirai then you gotta believe he's doing a legit job.
Great food. Excellent service. Fun vibes.
Also? YOUR OWN POT OF DONABE RICE!!!