Sehaj S.
Yelp
This review is specifically for the Umami experience in the Basement Bar.
My husband and I went to the Basement Bar a couple years back for their Simpsons experience and really loved it. The food and cocktails were delicious. We still have our little Buzz cola glass! With that visit in mind, we excitedly booked the Umami tasting experience again in the Basement Bar. We are both big foodies and were excited to see how this kitchen would experiment and explore the concept of "the fifth taste."
I have to say, we were just expecting to enjoy a thoughtful meal, but hoo boy was that just part of the show. Throughout the service we had rolling servers/DJs trying to hype up the "crowd." Multiple times were we required to cheer to exclaim how good a time we were having. To hit home how strange and hilarious this was: in the middle of dinner my husband and I were having a serious conversation about the AAP's new guidelines on childhood obesity, when one of the servers insisted we needed to leave our table to go into another room for a sake bomb challenge. I just started laughing at this point because apparently, instead of going to dinner we ended up on some weird cruise ship. At the end of the meal, the host exclaimed we were all going to do karaoke! For.... exactly fifteen minutes. And then we had to leave. I think the servers were very nice and they truly tried to keep the mood up, but the song and dance routine definitely distracted from the meal. (Having said that, my husband definitely got up and rocked some karaoke.)
The real reason I'm giving the Umami experience three stars is for what should've been the main event: the food. Honestly, the menu was baffling. I would definitely not call this an Umami tasting menu, it was more a general "Pan-Asian" menu. There were several courses like lamb meatballs and chicken wings which felt vaguely Asian, but I wouldn't say they highlighted umami flavors. Also, the progression of courses was very strange. Our first two dishes were very heavy, somewhere in the middle we had a soup course, and towards the end of the meal we had a piece of hamachi sushi with mushroom. Huh??? Why weren't we going from lighter to heavier? Why weren't we starting with cleaner flavors and then going more pronounced, which would make sense with a menu focusing around umami! Also, the menu was waaaay too heavy on proteins. I was dying for more vegetables, which is really tragic as there are sooo many umami rich veggies! The only one really highlighted over and over again was mushroom. Please, give me a bruleed tomato, roast carrots, smothered cabbage, parmesan potatoes, the list goes on and on. I actually think this meal could have shined if they HADN'T stuck to Asian flavors. If the chefs highlighted how umami touches multiple cuisines, that would've been more interesting. Instead I think they thought "well, it's an Asian word, so we have to make Asian food." There were definitely a few highlights: the dashi broth with squid had a lovely, rich and deep flavor, the hamachi sushi was light and very fresh, and we loved the fermented/pickled veggies that were offered on the table.
I hate to add another critique but it must be said: the zero proof cocktails were astoundingly misbalanced. They were as sweet as a Hi-C. I think part of the problem is that they were trying to make zero proof versions of their alcoholic cocktails, and that wasn't working. It would be better to just have a nice variety of non-alcoholic beverages to choose from. I would've been much happier drinking Topo Chicos and jasmine tea all night.
I'm still curious to try the main dining room at Travail, but I think we'll take a break from the Basement Bar's shenanigans.