Paige Ellis Green
Google
With winter in full swing, I figured what better activity than eating delicious food to distract myself from the icy weather? Surely a full belly would make me better equipped for the cold? Maybe, maybe not. Best believe I was going to test this theory. Since I was in the mood for testing, The Test Kitchen felt fitting. Like always, I did some research and was delighted to see their special prix fixe menu. It was meant to be! With joy, I made the booking.
Fast forward to Thursday afternoon, time to eat. Of course, it was the coldest day of the year. Leaving my heater was a struggle, but I dressed as if going skiing and picked up my business partner. Tumi looked over and said, “you look, um, cosy?” I replied, “yes, it is FREEZING.”
We arrived and were greeted by the most welcoming hostess, full of joy. The music was blasting my favourite throwbacks and everyone looked genuinely happy. The energy here is impeccable. Even before sitting down, the warmth of the people made up for the breeze outside.
We were shown to our table and browsed the menu, though I’d already dissected it online. We ordered sparkling water and looked around. The interior is stunning, industrial chic laced with elegance. Exposed brick and pipes contrast beautifully with white tablecloths and leather chairs. My favourite part was the open kitchen, it felt like watching one of my cooking shows.
Now, let’s get into the food. The prix fixe menu (R590 pp) includes five courses. Starting strong with my favourite food group (bread), we were served vetkoek with snoek pate. Crisp, golden balls of perfection, steaming hot with flakes of sea salt. I lathered on smooth pate, which melted into the bread. Crunchy on the outside, fluffy inside. The subtle sweetness paired perfectly with the savoury, umami pate. The sea salt enhanced everything. This course didn’t last long.
Next, the oysters. Beautifully presented on ice, with precise brunoise cuts, big applause to the Chefs. The oysters were larger than most fine dining spots. Incredibly fresh and delicate, with tangy dressing and bursts of flavour from the pickled vegetables. This went down swimmingly.
Then came the heirloom tart. The plate was a work of art, something you’d hang in your apartment. It tasted like summer. Visually and in flavour, layered with texture and freshness. The buttery pastry paired perfectly with juicy tomato and luscious burrata. Underneath, a marinated zucchini salad balanced the richness. Oddly enough, the star was the garnishes and drizzle. The tangy reduction, pomegranates, dried fruit, pine nuts, and rocket brought it all together. You must get a bit of everything in one bite. The flavours married so well.
For the main, I chose oxtail. This dish was fun to eat. Thoughtfully layered, fresh pasta sheets, tender braised oxtail, earthy mushrooms, and lightly pickled vegetables. At first, I only ate the top layer, which was good but not mind blowing. Once I gathered everything onto my fork, the game changed. The umami richness of the mushrooms and meaty intensity of the oxtail were lifted by the pickled vegetables. The pasta was perfectly al dente, bringing saltiness and chew. Very comforting, it reminded me we were still in winter.
Finally, the beef fillet, a spiritual experience. Everything was perfection, but the real star was their famous sauce. If you know, you know. If not, this is your sign. The steak was buttery and melted in your mouth. The silky celeriac puree was the perfect vessel to scoop up that godly sauce. The golden potato gratin was crisp yet soft inside, and the charred broccoli added freshness. That sauce, rich, glossy, umami, full of flavour. I’d drink it.
This was the most delicious, indulgent afternoon. From the atmosphere to the flavour journey, everything was beautifully curated. I can confidently say I concur with my hypothesis, a full belly does make you better equipped for the cold. Thank you TTKF for a memorable afternoon. Till next time!