Arnaud Devred
Google
A very nice and enjoyable lunch, in the heart of Marseille, with spectacular views on Vieux Port. The cuisine has deep Provençal roots with some clins d’œil to Armenia (the young Chef, Ludovic Turac, was born in Marseille but has an Armenian grandmother). It is full of the flavors from this cosmopolitan city and uses various spices from around the Mediterranean (every dish comes with a sampler of the spices used in its composition). The cooking is modern, but without the gimmicks that « modern cooking » sometimes entails. What is modern is the freshness of the ingredients (whose origins are always specified), the clarity of the preparation, the accuracy of the cooking, and the lightness of the dishes. We had the menu « essentiels », which feature two of the Provençal basics: aioli and bouillabesse. And they both taste like aioli and boyillabesse, but not in a traditional and roborative way. They are more like dreams or reminiscences of aioli and bouillabesse. The « cabillaud nacré » melts in the mouth and the aioli sauce, which is lightly emulsified, offers a pleasant accentuation that does not overpower the delicate taste of the fish. The « soup de roche » that accompanies the « rouget » of the bouillabesse, is strong and deep, as it suits to such kind of soup, but again, it does not take the main role. In both cases, there is a subtle balance between the various elements giving a feeling of plenitude but not of fullness. The meal unfolds, like a pleasant journey in the calanques, with its palette of colors and surprises. The cassis white wine was a perfect match to the rouget and the bouillabesse. The service is discreet and efficient. The tableware is original and well harmonized with the food. In short, a southern table, but rejuvenated and looking to the future. We will definitely come back.