Julia Ferraro
Google
My palate is well honed to locate Uyghur food. Every time capital “U” followed by two tails of “y” and “g” float by a picture of noodles or a skewer, it’s: wait, wait, go back! To me, this food is feels bright, exotic, luxurious.
This is how I spotted Uyghur Lagman House on Woodhaven Boulevard in Rego Park.
The restaurant is only a short straight walk from the R train stop. Not even ten minutes. The place is bright and clean, the servers are friendly and accommodating without a fuss, a few tables taken by obvious regulars. Our group of five fit right in.
We go out at odd times — around 4 PM. For most people, it is too late for lunch and too early for dinner. Maybe this is why we always — most of the times — can get a table.
Home Style Lagman – house pulled noodles in a beef broth with bell peppers, cabbage, spinach, and tomatoes. Delicious broth that I ended up drinking when everyone was full, tender meat and — the most important part — thick chewy long noodles. Not as spicy as some of us would have liked but for spice there are other lagman variations on the menu and a house made hot pepper relish was on the table.
Uighur Polo — lamb cooked in rice with chickpeas and raisins. Tender lamb, perfect rice with each grain separate.
Uygur Manta — lamb dumplings where meat is not ground but roughly chopped. Large and juicy.
Lamb Shish Kebab — that is what my food dreams are made of and I could never miss it on the menu no matter what. Love how in this culture they can eliminate the gamey taste, flavor the meat delicately not overpowering the lamb flavor, and cook it trough with a nice char outside but tender inside.
Chuchura — yes, hot soup when it is 90°F outside might sound strange but soups from that part of the world is my idea of heaven. No one can make broth thick, rich, deeply flavored but not fatty like they do. Beef based chuchura with dumplings and vegetables was just that.
Cucumber Salad — bright and crunchy, dressed with vinegar and sesame oil it reminded me of my favorite Tiger celery salad from Xi’an
Nan. I avoid bread in restaurants. It fills you fast and limits the number of thing to try. Since there were five of us we ordered some and good thing we did. Light and airy, it was perfect to sop up the last bits of juices from the other dishes we ordered.
Special Uyghur Tea flavored with the rock candy which gave the tea its caramel flavor had lemon, goji berries, dried figs, and rose flowers to name a few things. Only lightly sweet, tangy, and citrusy. We asked to refill out pot twice.
Between the five of us, we had no leftovers and now I am sad we didn’t order Special and Qorirma Lagmans, Big Plate Chicken, Scallion Lamb and Kazan Kabob that other tables ordered. Also sad about Mampar soup that floated by us to the next people over — boy, the scent! And samsa — should have ordered some to take home but forgot — a full belly does’t remember what’s it like being empty.