Austin B.
Yelp
tl;dr the doughnut quality is standard, while the prices are premium -- enjoy the treats for their fun twists, but don't expect the flavors to blow you away
Portland has been the origin of its fair share of popular dessert shops, and perhaps none is as well-known as Voodoo Doughnut. Since 2003, Voodoo has achieved fame for its diverse and ambitious doughnut lineup and off-the-wall extracurricular activities (certified, in-shop wedding, anyone?). Plenty of Portlanders lament Voodoo as tacky and touristy, but that hasn't repelled the rabid hype that follows each new Voodoo outpost that has opened outside Portland. Since 2017, Angelenos have also been able to pick up Voodoo Doughnut locally at the Universal CityWalk. And as an unofficial doughnut aficionado, in the country's most doughnut-centric city, I couldn't wait to pay Voodoo a visit.
The hot pink storefront looks like a larger-than-life doughnut box, further accented with custom neon signs and a 10-foot tall Voodoo Doll doughnut standing guard. The inside room is dizzyingly colorful, among the bright pink walls, Voodoo-themed stained glass windows, and pastel tile floors. Mildly macabre decorations, including a life-sized coffin and slightly spooky art pieces, further personalize the space. A picture menu is protected within a coffin-shaped frame, and donuts of each variety spin within 2 glass, multi-tiered display cases up front. Early 2000s tunes blast echo around the room.
After a full day at Universal, Voodoo still boasted a long queue looping around the room; efficient service ensured a palatable wait. Despite studying the eclectic menu, I knew I had to try the signature Voodoo Doll. It was most comparable to a Long John, carefully decorated to look like its namesake. The dough itself was surprisingly dense and sweet -- my partner commented that it reminded her of a potato roll. The thick layer of chocolate frosting was evenly spread, but the raspberry jam filling was absent above chest level. Ultimately, I was let down. At later visits to the Portland locations, I've been more impressed by the Memphis Mafia fritter (a subtly addictive banana-forward concoction overloaded with peanut butter and chocolate toppings that exceeds most non-apple fritters) and the special Dirty Chai (glazed with intense espresso frosting and piped with spiced Chai Bavarian cream).
While more adventurous than the standard mom-and-pop shop, even Voodoo's most innovative flavors feel tame within LA's eclectic new-wave doughnut scene. Further, the doughnuts are mostly standard in quality, yet sport a nearly $5 price tag. As such, I understand the perspective of the Voodoo detractors. Nonetheless, for any doughnut connoisseur unable to make the pilgrimage to Portland, rest assured that Voodoo will at least be cheaper than any other treats at Universal.