eddie chan
Google
Should a “world-famous tyre company”-anointed restaurant be held to a higher standard? Perhaps - especially when the bill creeps close to RM100 per head. But accolades aside, when it comes to homestyle cooking, the fundamentals still matter: technique, seasoning, and food quality must speak for themselves.
We were entertaining foreign guests on a Tuesday evening, and began with the appetiser platter - a sampler of five local classic small bites. The otak-otak (9/10) and lobak (8/10) came through strong, bold and well-seasoned. The rest, however, fell flat: cucur (5/10), pie tee (5/10), and achar (4/10) felt like afterthoughts - bland, forgettable, and lacking punch. Presentation, too, could use tightening.
The mains told a similar story of highs and lows. The Tau Yu Bak was the night’s standout - rich, savoury, and deeply comforting (10/10). Grouper Asam Tumis (8/10) delivered on tang but skimped on fish. Nasi Ulam (8/10) was fragrant and satisfying, while the Assam Prawns (7/10) were let down by a rubbery texture. Inchi Kabin (4/10) arrived over-fried and bone-dry; the Mixed Vegetables (4/10) lacked ‘wok hei’ and soul. Desserts fared better: Bubur Chacha and Sago (9/10) ended things on a sweet, nostalgic note. The Sambal Belacan (9/10) was nicely balanced, a quiet triumph on the side. The chilled New Zealand white paired surprisingly well throughout.
Additionally dishes came out sporadically, without a consistent rhythm. In the end, we left feeling just a little shortchanged. There were glimmers of brilliance, but the inconsistency dulled the experience. A meal with potential—just not one that fully lived up to its reputation.