Martin G.
Yelp
I fancy clean storefronts with flush walls and discrete logos, which is the drastic contrast provided by the Workshop Kitchen building in the bustling screaming energy of Labrea. Upon entry, there is a sense of being overwhelmed - by the loft ceiling, stocked bar, alien spaceship pod booths, kitchen, and central island tables. There is definitely a lot going on, to the point of surprise and moment of inner hesitation - whether this is in fact the restaurant or a practice ground for Cirque de Soleil trapeze artists off the clock. Thankfully, the owners have set up a clear spot for the maitre'd and it takes little to no time to be ushered into the cover page of Architecture digest.
Organizationally, Workshop Kitchen is quite the place, and arguably without a close match around town. It feels so clean, even sterile, and the crew approaches diners with so much attentiveness that you immediately feel at home (if your home was just sanitized and from the year 2128). I found ordering to be a breeze - with the help of Karen, though the menu seemed a bit overloaded with too many add-on options. Want the caviar for additional +$36? Wagyu for +$40? Gold flakes for +$28? Want the dish to arrive with a plate underneath for +$19? These are all items I clearly accept a la carte, but were tasteless noise on a pre-set tasting menu.
By the time I processed the environment and gave the menu a proper read, cocktails arrived. The bar managed to create some very unique and inventive flavors, and whether I ultimately loved the drink or not, I will admit they were all superbly crafted. If the vibe allowed for it, I certainly wouldn't mind heading to the bar just for a couple of rounds there.
The menu consisted of 5 plates. The starting crudo was absolutely amazing, with a divine dashi and really fatty dry-aged kampachi. It was quite the stellar start for dinner and absolute winner for the night.Then the heirloom tomato salad came next with a serious fun twist, and while being lovely overall, it paled in comparison to the crudo. The Alaskan Halibut then kindly dropped my expectations for the rest of dinner service - despite the unusual blend of buillabaisse, mushroom, tom kha, it sat bland on top of overpowering lemongrass and spice, which rendered the entire thing pointless in many respects. It was the haute cuisine equivalent of a cookies and cream protein shake, because those shakes are also made to be chugged in a confusing mixture of overpowering flavors because it's protein after all. I digress.
Masami Ranch Dry Aged Steak. Perfectly cooked visually. Light pink center, thin cut. Both potato pave and horseradish cream were really nice additions. But oh my, did the steak chew like a stale month-old bag of twizzlers. I would have never imagined it would require to be mostly spit out, because it tasted as poorly as it looked good. The other main, Campo Grande Iberico Pork Chop was miles ahead and well worth the +$20 airfare from Spain add-on. If there must be one takeaway from my review, it is to absolutely insist on the pork over the steak.
Finally, the medovik sponge cake topped it all off with incredible lightness, fun presentation and balance without being overly sweet. As I nibbled on it, I kept wondering how to properly characterize the cuisine at Workshop Kitchen, and failed. While many of the plates were somewhat unpolished or crude, and others - superb or stellar, the entire layout and Handmaid's Tale vibe makes it well worth the trip.