Yakitori Ichimatsu

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"There are many shrines to skewered chicken around the city, but none holier than Ichimatsu. A dozen counter seats around an altar-like grill allow diners to witness Hideto Takeda’s mastery of yakitori and Hinai-jidori birds from Akita prefecture. Skin, gizzards, neck, and sashimi are all highlights of the constantly changing omakase, and the pickled kinkan (early stage, unlaid eggs) are revelatory. Must-try menu: Go for the Hinai chicken kaiseki featuring different parts of the bird in various preparations, such as firewood-grilled wings." - La Carmina

"On the theme of ‘playing with fire’, the chef finds ingenious variations on flame and preparation, resulting in yakitori full of variation and surprises. Smoky aromas billow from wing tips grilled over a wood flame. Helmeted guinea fowl, deep-fried with minimal oil, is an idea borrowed from tempura. Duck is char-grilled and swaddled in ankake sauce. Chicken paté and fruit skewers cleanse the palate between courses. You never know what’s coming next, and that’s part of the fun." - Michelin Inspector

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"A one-Michelin-star omakase in Osaka devoted to Hinai Jidori chicken across an 18-course progression; the meal is humble and impeccably executed, driven by ingredient focus rather than flashy plating, and marked by the quiet, unassuming presence of the chef working behind the grill." - Erin Russell

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"At the polar opposite end of the yakitori spectrum, try the Michelin-starred Yakitori Ichimatsu in Osaka."

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"This traditional Japanese skewered chicken is slow-grilled over fire. At a secret spot in Osaka, called Ichimatsu, there are only 12 seats, and you’re served by chef Hideto Takeda, whose grilling technique is perfection."