Steve M.
Yelp
Well. This changes everything. While UCF's presence pummels our options with corporate output units, along comes someone and someplace that says Nope to all that.
Before you taste anything, the kitchen presents as a back line, a window, and Chef's garnish table out front and in the light. Every plate gets his permission.
I watched a couple share wine they brought while I tried to figure out how to decrease my order from all the things I wanted to try to something normal. I settled on Shanghai ribs, chili wontons, and tuna tartare.
The ribs came on strong recommendation when I gave up and let my server guide. They come out like firewood stacked 2 on 2 and I don't know what part of St. Louis these ribs come from, but I can name a dozen barbecue places that need to hear about these. The meat was thicker than the bone and they were well trimmed of all that oh dear not pork fat. I'm on the oh dear not sugar side, and sweet chili worked because it wasn't candy, it was an accent to a flavor. Oh, and they're not that nuclear accident red you get at Chinese takeout.
Chili wontons, the only item on the menu with two campfires next to it warning the beef with broccoli crowd to steer clear, are made with house chili oil and shaped very chopstick-friendly. My preference would be one more campfire, which I'm sure they'll accommodate next time. I also need to figure out if this chili oil works for me, it's a little one-dimensional, like it's getting all its heat from one ingredient.
Tuna tartare was a stack of chopped tuna, avocado and cucumber served with fried wonton discs to transfer the food from the plate into nom nom nom. More a palate cleanser really, with avocado cut so tiny it never stood out. I think this would amp up if the avocado was given as much attention as the radish since a lot of avocado is the feel, especially when it competes with rice wine vinegar.
For take out, I ordered egg rolls, dumplings, and chicken wings.
The egg rolls needed to be tried because they had curry chicken and potato in them. Presented like Cal-Mex baja eggrolls, the ends were chewier than expected, the content bland, and the cilantro crema added texture without being otherwise present.
Dumplings change seasonally and were traditional, what you'd call potstickers or Peking ravioli. The thin wrapper makes these about the stuffing, not about a wad of dough.
Chicken wings are offered with char siu sauce or, mocking the industry, "take-out seasoning." Picking sauce yielded breaded wings wearing a glaze. The breading was a surprise and an obstacle and the wings had an awful lot of chew.
Next time: beef with broccoli sandwich? Served with fries?