Peter C.
Yelp
Yellow's a pop-up, no more. It's Old Yeller now, having earned its rightful place amongst the established stars of the Potts Point gastronomic firmament courtesy of the team that brought us Bentley and Monopole. Probation's up, says the headmistress. Time to lift those skirts!
But the novelty of the New Kid on the Block has not worn off yet, at least not on me. In my defense, their weekend brunch may still be a newish thing. And OK, I got over the odd black geometric circles in the decor pretty fast and found that choice neither inspired nor interesting.
I tried two of Yellow's weekend brunch offerings yesterday, both good -
Cuttlefish, Avocado, Celery & Yuzu Vinaigrette ($18)
Thin, delicate strips of celery covering a pile of finely sliced cuttlefish, slightly chewy and clean to the palate. Dabs of avocado puree, perhaps with egg yolks as an emulsifier, almost resembling the consistency of aioli. A nice brightness from the yuzu. The cuttlefish offered little flavor of its own, and was dominated by the celery. I liked the little spice mix, to me resembling dukkah, topping the salad. A good starter, light and unobtrusive, a bit one-note.
Poached Egg with Charred Onion Consomme, Mushrooms & Peas ($16)
3 eggs poached sous vide, with egg whites assuming the form of melting custard and completely liquid orange centers, indistinguishable from raw. They were bathed in lukewarm onion broth, deeply savory and amazingly transluscent. A western, vegetarian pho, if you will. Off to the side were punctuated bites of salty chestnut mushrooms. Peas offered contrasting sweetness, and fun toasted oat (?) grains gave the taste and texture of popcorn kernels. A brilliantly conceived, and executed, dish.
One star off for truly mediocre Vittoria coffee ($3.50). I no longer expect good coffee anywhere that brand is served. Why it is served at all is another discussion entirely.