"Brent Savage’s flagship vegetarian fine diner turned fully vegan during the pandemic, and it’s pulling some truly impressive moves under head chef Sander Nooij. The minimal dish names — like Braised Leek + Green Garlic + Potato Sauce, for example — understate how utterly flavor-loaded they really are. How the potato sauce tastes like rich, buttery whipped mash is a mystery, even when servers patiently explain it. Also glorious: skewered mushrooms topped with whipped tofu, fermented chile sauce, and roasted nori, among other dazzling menu staples." - Lee Tran Lam