Scot Fishman
Google
Sometimes well-reviewed restaurants are simply over-hyped and underwhelming. Yeni Lokanta deserves every bit of the attention...and more. I ate at several amazing restaurants in Istanbul, yet this is the only one that made me stop in the middle of my meal to begin a review!
Let me start by giving a shout-out to the absolutely delightful service from beginning to end. Nevin was my server, and she made the evening special from beginning to end.
I also need stress that the space and vibe is anything but pretentious. It's adorable - the kind of place that makes you want to stay a while. It's not a big place - small enough to be intimate and yet large enough to fit about 10 tables plus bar seating. There's soft music blending into the background, just below the level of friends having fun conversation over incredible food. The front door remains open on a beautiful late summer night, which provides a fresh breeze through the restaurant. And while it is located in the very popular Beyoglu, Yeni tucked away on a little side street. It's...perfect.
I opted for the seven course tasting menu, and the restaurant was nice enough to accommodate one modification for me due to not eating prawns. I ordered a glass (and soon to be two!) of an amazing 2024 Kavaklidere Cotes d' Avanos Sauvignon Blanc wine...and that has me searching the US wine distributors already.
A delicious, freshly baked round açma pastry began the night with garlic butter, and then the first course was a beef manti (Turkish dumpling) in the most delicious, flavor-packed sauce. Wow. I wanted to dive into that bowl!
The second course combined morel mushrooms with hummus, capers and pieces of crispy maraș tarhana (a fermented wheat cracker). Absolutely delicious.
Next was an incredible salad (substitution) comprised of green apples, plums, arugula and almonds, tossed perfectly in a vibrant lemon and olive oil dressing and sweet chili sprinkled throughout. Oh...My...
And when it couldn't get any better, my 7 course meal became an 8 course meal! Navine really wanted me to try this beautifully balanced and unique blend of artichokes, strawberries, peas, mint and pureed fava beans. It was so flavorful yet light and refreshing.👌
Next up was a plate of stewed tomatoes with watermelon and a sour cherry puree. While I am not the biggest fan of tomatoes, this dish was playful and bold - using the similar colors of all three main ingredients that very different flavors, blended together in a refreshing twist!
Next was a really interesting balance of textures and flavors: a warm eggplant, tulum cheese, dried figs and almonds with some sort of sauce underneath that I don't know. I was worried the strength of the cheese would overpower the eggplant, but it did not. It worked! The crunchiness of the almonds also added depth to the dish unexpectedly. Well done!
And the star of the show: a slow (perfectly) cooked lamb neck with sea beans (a long,thin green vegetable that was new to me) and oyster mushrooms in a tarhana soup (based in yogurt and flour with spices). This was superb.
The three pieces of baklava did not make me decline the final dessert course, a katmer (flaky pastry) with pistachio and coconut ice cream. Just enough sweetness to creat the final sense of balance to an absolutely wonderful meal.
And now I need a nap. :)
If you're traveling to Istanbul and need a special dinner that doesn't completely break the bank (a 7 course meal, without drinks, for under $100) and remains vibrant, this is your spot. Don't hesitate for one minute!