Jón Þorsteinn S.
Google
There is a particular warmth that greets you at Laugarás, not only the heat of the lagoon itself, but the quieter, more enduring warmth that thoughtful cooking leaves behind. Ylja is not a place that seeks attention or grand declarations, it speaks softly, and those who listen are rewarded.
I chose the Yljandi soup board, and from the first spoonful the experience felt closer to a meditation than a simple lunch. The fish soup was silk-smooth and clear in its intent, exactly what a fish soup should be at its very best, light, comforting, and free of unnecessary embellishment. There were no shellfish to steal the spotlight, no shrimp added for effect, only the fish itself, allowed to express its flavour in perfect balance and restraint. The structure of the soup is exemplary, a testament to confident craftsmanship. One might imagine a touch of acidity, perhaps a spoon of lightly whipped sour cream, to add another note, but that is more reflection than critique, as the soup stands beautifully on its own.
Alongside it came house-made sourdough bread with whipped butter, fresh tomato salad, and herb pesto, all playing supporting roles rather than competing for attention, the bread was tender within, its crust gently yielding, the butter softening without dulling the palate.
Dessert followed in the form of a milk chocolate mousse with mandarin granita, buttermilk foam, and spruce meringue, and here the same sense of balance prevailed, the meringue crisp yet delicate, never cloying, the sweetness measured and precise, and the interplay between the bright mandarin and the velvety chocolate creating a graceful dialogue of freshness and depth.
The service was exemplary, quite simply a ten out of ten, well organised, attentive, and informed, offering a clear and confident overview of what was on offer while caring for guests with professionalism and genuine knowledge throughout. It is service that guides rather than intrudes, ensuring the experience flows effortlessly from beginning to end.
Ylja is, in the end, a place for those who value restraint, harmony, and respect for ingredients, a meal, and a welcome, that warm not only the body, but the mind as well.
