Zelaia

Where to Drink Real Cider in Basque Country - AFAR

"Founded in 1942 by Joaquín Gaincerain and now run by his three granddaughters, this stone-walled farmhouse sidrería opens only for txotx season (January–April) and remains firmly traditional: cider is tapped from barrels with the escanciar pour and left unpasteurized, unfiltered, and free of added sulfites so it keeps developing as a living product. Guests stand on sawdust-covered floors with no chairs or plates, drink a single crystalline sip called a culín then discard the remainder, and eat from communal trays piled with country fare—steak, olives, cheese and jellies—while locals wait hours shoulder-to-shoulder, sing, toast and refill their glasses through the night. The result is a convivial, rustic atmosphere and a cider experience that can range from a bright, tart, green-apple first sip to a more mellow, barnyard-spiced profile as a barrel ages." - William Bostwick