"Chef-owner Richard Ho serves a near-perfect Taiwanese beef noodle soup out of a tiny, 10-seat East Village spot. The bowl features glossy, soy-braised beef shanks sourced from sustainable Happy Valley Meat Co., an intricately layered broth made from the braising liquid, jellied beef stock, and a touch of “mother broth” from the previous day, and flappy white flour noodles with just the right amount of chew. Salt-pressed mustard greens fermented for about a month add tangy balance, and for a small upcharge you can get a chile crisp–style finger bowl of beef fat seasoned with three chiles. The combination is comforting, luxurious, and deeply satisfying—likened to sinking into 100% cashmere joggers." - ByElyse Inamine