"In the shoebox wine-bar setting of Ha’s Snack Bar I waited for the chalkboard to reveal nightly surprises—springy snails in tamarind butter, a Spanish tortilla studded with lap cheong and crab, and the occasionally majestic vol-au-vent of curried lobster and sweetbreads—experiencing the buzz of a place everyone wants to keep secret, with no phone number, fleeting reservations, and an intimacy born of counter seats and an open kitchen." - ByThe Bon Appétit Staff