"A cult L.A. taqueria run by Teodoro Diaz-Rodriguez Jr. and Jennifer Feltham that focuses on Sonoran specialties from San Luis Río Colorado; the costilla taco is singled out as transformative. Carne asada is grilled over mesquite and wrapped in handmade flour tortillas made with melted lard and soft Sonoran wheat brought up from Mexico by Diaz’s mother — a painstaking sourcing choice that yields impossibly thin, supremely chewy, mildly porky tortillas that Samin Nosrat was unable to replicate with American flours. Tacos are often filled with tender carne asada, pinto beans, and charred poblanos, and finished with charred scallions, lime wedges, and a two-tone splash of salsa rojo and avocado crema. The counter-service vibe is lively and friendly, with staff enthusiastically prompting seconds." - ByAliza Abarbanel