Steak and Martinis Are Forever. Dear John’s Is Ephemeral. | Bon Appétit
"Opened by longtime L.A. chef Hans Röckenwagner and his wife Patti under a deliberately short two-year lease, this revival of a 1960s celebrity haunt beside studio lots embraces a pop-up, live-for-now ethos: the lease expires in April 2021 and the building is slated for demolition. The 1,500-square-foot cavernous dining room is warmed with velvet curtains and a trove of vintage paintings from gallerist Robert Berman — from a poodle in front of a fountain to a nude female matador — creating a glamorous, twilight “time zone” atmosphere. The menu, a collaboration between Röckenwagner and Josiah Citrin, reads like a quintessential American steakhouse prop list (Oysters Rockefeller; Prime New York strip; creamed spinach; lobster thermidor; garlic bread; and the rumoured Frank Sinatra spaghetti and clams), martinis are only lightly spritzed with vermouth, and the venue holds liquor, entertainment, and dancing licenses. Service is theatrical and old-school, led by Hank, the immaculate tuxedoed maître d. Order the steak with garlic bread and soak up the ephemeral, celebratory vibe while you can." - ByAlex Beggs
