The Absolute Best Dishes We Ate at New Restaurants in 2023 | Bon Appétit
"Beef suya is one of my all-time favorite summer dishes: the classic Nigerian street food of skewered beef, cooked hard and fast and coated in a peanutty spice blend, is all I want when it hits 95 degrees in New York. So, after my sweaty subway ride to Lincoln Center to eat at Tatiana, Kwame Onwuachi’s new restaurant, I was delighted to see suya on the menu. Like most of his best dishes, this one was an interpretation, not a direct translation. At Tatiana, the food is something of a patchwork tapestry of New York, where curried goat patties sit next to, say, black bean hummus and truffle chopped cheese. The suya was no exception; the Nigerian-Jewish take on the dish featured a massive beef rib that looked like it might have come off a dinosaur, cured like pastrami, and coated in sweet and spicy suya-inspired spices. Tearing that meat apart and stuffing it into supple fresh-baked rolls was a delicious, on-the-nose reminder of exactly what makes New York’s food culture so tantalizing." - ByThe Bon Appétit Staff & Contributors
