The Will and the Way

"First impression? For many years, this spot on one of the less frenetic streets of the historic French Quarter was the well-liked Longway Tavern. The LeBlanc + Smith restaurant group took time around lockdown to recalibrate the concept and revamp the property, combining both a will and a perhaps more contemporary way. A shifted focus on wines and cocktails means that this ‘French Quarter lobby’ boasts more space—including Murphy tables around the counter, a refurbished L-shaped bar and an evolution of the tavern-style decor. The atmospheric, textured walls have been given a modern blue wash, the 18th-century architectural feature shown off to great effect, and there’s a lovely courtyard as befits a downtown New Orleans watering hole. How’s the crowd? One of the stated aims of the rebranding and redesign was to add a more local mix to the tourist-heavy demographics of this neighborhood. There’s certainly a much more discerning clientele than the lurid neon havoc on nearby Bourbon Street, and a young-skewed crowd who want to socialize over smaller plates and well-crafted drinks take up tables in the various new nooks and crannies of the building. How are the drinks? The wine list has been a particular focus, and their globally-diverse list remains accessible thanks to prices that allow for adventure while remaining solidly in mid-double figures for a bottle. Local classics are of course well-represented on the cocktail menu, and it wouldn’t be a serious New Orleans bar without at least one well-made classic daiquiri and a sazerac. The specials keep things relatively simple and include a fun Pickletini as well as a frozen selection that is a real winner given the tropical weather in these parts. If there’s food, is it worth ordering something to eat? The new ethos of the venue means that snacks and small plates are to the fore. Asian and mediterranean elements shine through, and as a savory pie lover, I’m always happy to see choices such as their excellent Natchitoches Meat Pie. The focused selection of larger format meals includes a burger with a decadent red wine foie gras butter and some moreish curried cauliflower. Did the staff do you right? Some serious local young talent was assembled to launch the spot, and currently Josh Williams and Kip Scott take charge of the food with Will Garcia Dhonau navigating the drinks offering. Ordering food at the bar (which servers bring to your table) makes for a more social experience than the more formal restaurant set up, and there’s a notably considerate sense of hospitality. Wrap it up: what are we coming here for? It takes a thoughtful approach to create a memorable hospitality experience in the French Quarter, which is awash with forgettable ones alongside the lauded institutions. LeBlanc + Smith have designed a barroom and courtyard where the priorities are a seamless customer experience and a flow that promotes enjoyment—aesthetically and logistically, as well as gastronomically." - Paul Oswell