"Fermin Nuñez, the much-lauded chef of Suerte, La Condesa, and Launderette, picks up seafood unconventionally (including with charcoal fire) in Este's inventive coastal Mexican dishes, heirloom-corn masa, and acidic ceviches and aguachiles. Raw dishes have almost laser-cut precision here, whether you’re diving into shrimp with avocado and burnt tomatillo in a cacao and habanero broth, or albacore gently bathed with carrot-pepper salpicon and chile oil. A truly extravagant spread is the seafood tower, with dozens of just-delivered oysters and clams plus chile shrimp and buttery lobster. Deliberate, heady selections of dozens of coastal-themed wines, from complex skin contact whites to brighter reds to limited edition bottles, are paired with the preps of coastal seafood, and the mezcal and tequila selections are expansive and varied to make for sippable patio margaritas." - Mandy Ellis