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"I found Olmo—on a quiet Bed‑Stuy corner in Ocean Hill—to be the most successful part of the neighborhood’s small renaissance: a warm, serene cantina Neoyorquina with honeyed lighting and tree‑stump seating that nods to its name (elm). Chef Jael Lopez, formerly of Cosme, keeps the food grounded: two‑per‑order sopes with corn masa, black beans and queso fundido; crackling chicharrón with verdant guasacaca; tender carne asada with chipotle bearnaise and warm tortillas; and a crudité with charred squash and lacto‑fermented plums that flirts with fine dining. The cocktail list is thoughtful (I kept returning to a palo santo–infused martini), and the overall vibe is quietly welcoming." - Charlie Hobbs