andBeyond Grumeti Serengeti River Lodge

"Why book? To get up close to wildlife, but away from the crowds, in one of the biggest national parks in Africa. The camp lies beside a tributary of the crocodile-infested Grumeti river in the park’s Western Corridor, where tens of thousands of beasts often pass during the great migration, followed by feasting lions. The camp’s total rebuild in 2022—by the safari-camp superstars Fox Browne—has turned it from a safari outpost into a designer boutique hotel that just happens to be in the bush. With a spa, a pool, and ten enormous contemporary villa-style suites, the game isn’t the only attraction. This is a contemporary bush hideout in which to holiday: have a massage, do yoga, lounge about after lunch by the pool with binoculars—and then, perhaps, venture out on a game drive. The backstoryThe lodge was built in the 1990s and was a favorite with safari-goers. After it was flooded, in 2020, andBeyond took on the South African safari supremos Fox Browne to rebuild it for the 21st century. Working with the architect Jack Alexander, they created a new central living space and spa, linked by a pool and 10 contemporary bush villas, lined with canvas, wood, and banana leaves, to echo the building materials of a tribal manyatta (or local village compound). The former bush camp opened as a colorful, creative safari lodge in 2022. The roomsDouble the size of the originals, each of the capacious flat-roofed rooms—built on steel frames clad in canvas and local wood—was designed so guests could relax in privacy, without feeling the need to venture into the camp’s central living spaces. Push open the glass or mesh front walls, and the double-height, open-plan rooms open onto a deck, with a plunge pool and sala from which to view wildlife in the scrub opposite. To the rear, shelves and cupboards are well-stocked with snacks and drinks, characterful pottery, and cocktail shakers and plungers. To the side stretches a lavish bush bathroom, with Italian marble surfaces, an enormous bathtub with river views, and indoor and outdoor showers. At the heart of it all lies a king-sized bed, swathed in floor-to-ceiling curtains; there are also loungers, a swing chair, and a shaded cushioned sala for afternoon snoozes. Like all andBeyond camps, this one is user-friendly, with simple light switches, spaces for luggage, eco-friendly amenities, and even bird books and Swarovski binoculars. Food and drinkThe bar is one of the prettiest in the bush: a central circular spot, hung with a chandelier of kitenge fabric and hand-blown glass baubles, around which guests gather at sunset for drinks—passionfruit G&Ts in pretty cocktail glasses, chilled South African wine, tankards of local beer—and fire-warmed cashew nuts, delivered by jovial Tanzanian barmen. Food is inventive and fresh, from nduja-sprinkled salads to fire-roasted pizzas to whole barbecued fish, served on characterful African pottery in a shaded, open-sided, terraced living area or in a lamplit boma under the stars. The spaBetween rooms and the living area lies a little gym (with lions prowling about, and elephants often crunching leaves between rooms, this is no place to go for a run), fitted out with the latest equipment. An intuitive local masseuse delivers treatments in-room, using botanically-infused local oils, and offers yoga classes by the pool deck (recommended first thing in the morning, when dozens of birds provide aural accompaniment). The neighborhoodThere are only two other camps within 60,000 hectares, so out on game drives there’s nothing about but creatures: herds of elephants, prides of lions lying in the shade, giraffes galloping across grasslands, and birds from tiny sunbirds to pelicans fishing in the oxbow lagoon beside the lodge. Grumeti airstrip is a ten-minute drive away, for flights to Arusha; the nearest village is a few hours’ drive away. The serviceThe Tanzanian men and women employed here are jovial, eager to learn, and clearly want guests to have a lovely time in their country. Service is friendly, rather than polished, which feels appropriate in a camp in the middle of nowhere. Who comes here?Pretty much anyone who likes wildlife—from multi-generational families from India on annual visits to honeymooners from Europe, and regulars from the US on the lookout for rare birds. The colorful, bold designs—featuring kitenge-covered poufs alongside hand-woven sisal tables, wooden bamileke tables from West Africa alongside beaded Namji dolls, and a collection of artifacts—feature regularly on Instagram. For familiesAn interleading family suite (from $3,975 a night) has been created specifically for those with children. andBeyond’s WILDchild program offers age-appropriate safari activities, such as nature walks, volleyball, and pizza-making in the lodge’s boma. Eco effortPretty good. Rooms were built using materials from the previous flooded camp, alongside local woods, banana fiber, and East African fabrics. Power is largely solar-generated (with back-ups from diesel generators), water from boreholes, and lights LEDs. All food has to be trucked and flown in, but fresh vegetables are sourced where possible from nearby towns, and plastic is banned. The rooms have been built to have a limited footprint; constructed on steel frames, they could be removed and leave very little trace. Accessibility for those with mobility impairmentsThe closest room is a 5-minute walk from the main living area, along a rough stone path, so access is limited for those with impairments. Worth it?If design is your bag, yes. The rooms are beautifully designed and come with decent food, excellent cocktails, and game on tap. There isn’t a large variety of activities, so you have to like game drives." - Lisa Grainger