Hotel St George
"Set the scene for us.A 19th-century newspaper building overlooking a patch of green in the city center, which has been cleverly transformed into whimsical spaces with sculptures from Ai Wei Wei and slick Monocle-branded cafés (how very Stockholm of them). Pretty, sunlit, and grand; this is a tasteful hotel in a city whose tastes tends to skew a little... neon. What’s the story behind it?The building is magnificent: a former printing works from the 19th century. It was reborn as a hotel in 2018, thanks to the homegrown Kamp group, which has a collection of smart hotels in the city. The others feel like cool little spots for Helsinki—Lillia Roberts, for example, is poppy and fun, but lacks a certain maturity and outlook. But St George is grown-up and would be competitive among the great hotel cities in the world—it would give Sanders in Copenhagen a run for its money. What can we expect from our room?The rooms may be where the design and the narrative of the hotel come together best, with white walls, lilac curtains, and blonde wooden furniture carved with functional simplicity that would make Alvar Aalto proud. It all works with natural light, which here tends to be sharp in winter and soft in summer. We had a Studio, the lowest category of room, but never felt a need for an upgrade—it felt large, calming, and well-appointed. Exactly where you want to return to after a day island-hopping around the harbor. The tech nailed that Nordic sophisticated simplicity; the bed was plump with a marshmallow-like duvet that will swallow you up. And the Bruket bath bottles are so phenomenal you may feel like ordering some online for back home. How about the food and drink?An interesting fusion at the Andrea restaurant, with Turk-Finnish recipes from Istanbul-based chef Mehmet Gurs (he was born in Finland, so the connection is not too tenuous). Flatbreads and fish are elegantly plated. And at breakfast, there is quite possibly the tastiest rye bread in all Helsinki, paired with Gurs's note-perfect shakshuka if you’re feeling adventurous. The bakery café is run by Monocle magazine, and risks feeling a little austere in that way Scandi-design can default to, but the aroma of cinnamon rolls softens it up. Anything to say about the service?Attentive, invested, but not particularly memorable—no bad thing. The spa staff were especially helpful on Finnish beauty rituals, and able to talk you through various versions of creams and washes from homegrown brand Lumene. Who comes here?A sharply dressed, modest crowd—Finns who have worked in Stockholm or Copenhagen and have returned home. Sharp denim. Tailored blazers. Good hair. Glasses that may be ornamental. Alongside Americans with money to spend (Russians would more likely be at Lillia Roberts around the corner). How does it fit into the neighborhood?This is right downtown. Helsinki is a walkable city—anywhere on foot takes no more than 20 minutes. St George is set on a lovely little patch of green, flanked by large Beaux Arts buildings. It is lovely to begin your day with a stroll through the park instead of walking straight out onto Helsinki traffic. Anything you'd change?Some of the common spaces are so large and the hallways so long, that the cosmetic touches and art pieces get lost. Anything we missed?This is Helsinki, so the spa and sauna are more important than the restaurant. The pool and fitness rooms—underground, very sleek—are incredibly extensive. Is it worth it—and why?Helsinki is becoming more confident as a destination to rival other Nordic capitals, with a fashionable sauna scene and excellent dining. St George is the hotel that cements its spot as capital of refined cool." - Erin Florio
