The Rosenbach — Museum Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"What's this place about? Occupying two brownstones in tony Rittenhouse Square , The Rosenbach is a house museum and rare book library with an awe-inspiring collection of British and American literature. The museum was once the private home of the Rosenbach brothers, rare book dealers who curated the libraries of some of America’s most influential families, including the Folgers and Huntingtons. The collection they amassed is widely considered one of the finest in the country. What should we plan to see here? There are 400,000 items—a medley of rare books, manuscripts, pieces of art, decorative objects, and furnishings—in this historic home. The two libraries on view are regionally and chronologically organized, with the East library showcasing such works as the second folio of William Shakespeare’s plays, Bram Stoker’s handwritten notes for Dracula, and a handwritten manuscript of James Joyce’s Ulysses. The West library focuses on the literary contributions of the New World, showcasing the only surviving copy of Benjamin Franklin’s Poor Richard's Almanac, as well as the first book ever printed in America, some 20 years after the Pilgrims’ arrival. The museum's collection, one of the largest of early American books, rivals only the Library of Congress in size and scope. You can also spot items like rings worn by Robert Louis Stevenson and Lord Byron’s card case among the countless first editions. Does it ever hold any special exhibits? The Rosenbach features robust programming, including hands-on tours where spotlighted titles are removed from their protected bookcases for a closer look. Readings, lectures, and even biblio-inspired cocktail hours are just a few of the available programs. Temporary exhibitions, spotlighting authors both well-known and obscure, complete the experience. What's the crowd like? The Rosenbach lures book lovers from around the world: These are the folks who geek out when the docent shines a flashlight on a copy of Pierre, signed by Herman Melville to his dear friends, Mr. and Mrs. Nathaniel Hawthorne. On the practical side, how were facilities? Its location inside a historic townhouse ensures intimacy, but it doesn’t require too much walking to get a thorough look. Don’t mistake the antique furnishings as a place of respite, though. What does it offer in the way of tours? Docent-led tours are led through the libraries and home, and all visitors must be accompanied at all times, otherwise alarm bells will sound—don’t test it. The tours depart from the front desk on the hour and typically last 45 minutes to one hour. Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it? The gift shop occupies a small corner of the first floor and is stocked with literary-themed items including greeting cards, artwork crafted from prose, and a handful of books on authors who figure largely in the collection, including Lewis Carroll and James Joyce. Is there a cafe? There's no cafe, but nearby Rittenhouse Square is teeming with stylish cafes. Any last advice for the time- or attention-challenged? Walking around the Rosenbach should take no more than an hour, since you'll be sent (graciously, albeit) on your way once the docent-led tour has ended." - Nancy DePalma