Figure Eight
"Officially, Figure Eight’s culinary vision is, per their website, “the culture and culinary richness of the lower Atlantic coast through a Chinese-American lens.” But any New Yorker foodie’s first immediate impression of the place would be “hole-in-the-wall with a pedigree.” Its crew is led by sommelier Emmeline Zhao of Silver Apricot and executive chef Calvin Hwang, previously of Michelin-starred Saga and Vestry. It sits on Cornelia Street, a New York culinary hall of fame; alums include Pó, Home, and Pearl Oyster Bar, all well-eulogized bygones. Even the design doesn’t give much away; the space is cramped but polished, resembling two hallways in a chic Brooklyn brownstone, except teeming with tables (seats for one are cutely ensconced into bay windows). The Chinese-Southern flair isn’t evident until you tuck into the trim menu, featuring a handful of stars: crave-able turnip tots (as in, paleo-fied tater tots; $16) dipped in shrimp ketchup and lap chong (Chinese sausage) mayo; a just-rich-enough chowder of littleneck clams ($28) with soy milk and choi poh (Chinese preserved radishes); a salad of bok choy and starfruit ($23) that electrifies the taste buds and cleanses the palette; a take on Hong Kongese egg waffles ($16) that you’ll want to bathe in its attendant hot honey butter; and—simply—a sublime branzino ($80) on top of crispy rice. May Figure Eight’s resume put it on the map; may its flavors—familiar but surprising, subtle and masterful—keep it there." - Matt Ortile
