Kubri

The 29 Best Restaurants in Paris

"Regulars to the North Marais know it for a few fixtures, from the concept store Merci, the Marché des Enfants Rouges, and the Cirque d’Hiver, which hosts circuses, concerts, and even Fashion Week runway shows. Occupying one side of the circus is Kubri, one of the most dynamic and creative restaurants to open in Paris in recent years. Right from the covered outdoor alcove seating and entrance, it’s clear this spot breaks from neighborhood restaurant design convention— terra cotta tiles and burnt Sienna glazed earthenware contrast with matte white plaster walls. It has all the natural tones and brightness of a Mediterranean beachfront restaurant—a ray of sunshine in the city. The usual Lebanese mezze and shared main dishes—tabbouleh, baba ghanouj, and spiced meat kebabs have been zhushed up or replaced entirely by the Cordon Bleu-trained chef Rita Higgins, who spent six years living and cooking in Japan. The menu rotates seasonally but highlights have included several hummus variants (like the Sujuk, which comes with housemade sausage, tomato jam, and pine nuts), spiced lamb shank so tender the meat falls right off the bone, asparagus fatteh with bottarga, and a wild garlic and yogurt sauce, or octopus imsabaha (or masabacha). It may seem inconceivable to leave room for dessert, but rally to share (and take home if needed!) the pistachio-ashta cream cake with layers of black cherry compote." - Lindsey Tramuta, Sara Lieberman