Prestonfield House Edinburgh, Prestonfield, Edinburgh, Scotland, United Kingdom - Hotel Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"Lay it out for us: Where is this place? What's it all about? Located on the south side of Arthur's Seat, this hotel certainly makes a statement. You pass through grand gates before glimpsing the country house's unique exterior, which has symmetrical wings topped with chimneys and an imposing portico. It's all quite puritan, especially compared to the wink-and-a-nod furnishings inside. Prestonfield House is one of the city's most renowned five-star hotels, with a location within walking distance of all the key sights—and all the bustle of the Fringe's top venues—while feeling like a world away. A cab to Princes Street is just 10 minutes. Wow. Seems like there must be a good story behind this place, no...? During the medieval ages, this land were given to an order of Cistercian monks founded in 1150; hundreds of years (and a few royal hands later), it wound up belonging to James IV's printer, the first in Scotland. Later, the property would pass to the family of Sir Alexander Dick, who would host David Hume, Benjamin Franklin, and Dr. Samuel Johnson at the estate. Fast forward a few hundred years, and Winston Churchill and Margaret Thatcher would be dining here, while Sean Connery, Elton John, and Catherine Zeta Jones would—as the website says—"party the night away." Today, about six decades after being turned into a hotel, the property is owned by the same group that owns The Witchery at the Castle—an explanation, perhaps, for its signature theatrical flavor. This is no castle hotel, however; instead, it's set at the base of Edinburgh's extinct volcano, Arthur's Seat. Impressive. What are the rooms like? The hotel's 18 rooms and five suites are all individually decorated with gloriously over-the-top touches in the form of antiques, sumptuous velvet duvet covers, and regal tones of red and gold that harken back to the property's royal history. Suites, meanwhile, take the drama a step further with ornately carved wooden furniture, red velvet wallpaper, mahogany four-posted beds, and black lacquer furniture. For those really looking to push the boat out, the Owner's Suite—which has ostrich plumes adorning the bed and a library-style bathroom with a chariot bath for two—is accessed via a private turret staircase, which your private porter and concierge can help you find. On to the food and drink: Where should we go? What should we order? Rhubarb, from the team behind The Witchery, is one of Edinburgh's most romantic restaurants. The menu features classic Scottish dishes made from local ingredients, like Tweeddale sirloin and Belhaven lobster; there's also an 800-bottle wine list. Room service is available around the clock, and breakfast is included in the room rate; expect traditional dishes like eggs Benedict, as well as decadent homemade pastries. Don't miss a nightcap in the hotel's Whisky Room, especially on a chilly night; the sumptuous leather banquettes and collection of rare malt whiskies—or a deftly made cocktail—will keep you warm. But if you'd rather have a fireside drink in the nearby Tapestry Room, that's just fine: The bar menu is available around the property and around the clock. How do the staff treat you? Service is a dream, from the warm welcome of biscuits and tea to anything else you need, be it theater tickets or a private after-hours shopping spree in one of Edinburgh's swankiest stores. Just keep an eye out for the concierge team's black kilts. Tell us a bit more about the surrounding area—you mentioned it feels set apart from the city itself? Perched on the south side of Arthur's Seat, the hotel feels like it's in the middle of the countryside, but it's actually within walking distance of residential Newington, which bleeds into the city center. Is there anything you'd change? Wifi in the rooms would be nice—current Apple computers no longer have broadband plugs—but disconnecting has its charms, too. Anything else we should know about before booking a room here? Guests have access to the wonderful 18-hole course next door. This is a well-known wedding venue in the city—check to see if there's one scheduled during your stay. The hotel is also dog-friendly—Fido can nose around the 23 acres of gardens, and he's welcome in all the common areas (except for Rhubarb). Speaking of the gardens: keep an eye out for the peacocks. Bottom line: Worth it? Why? Absolutely; this is The Witchery's countryside cousin, and a stay here is one to remember." - Krystin Arneson