Valhalla — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? The always bustling Time Out Market now has one more reason to visit—this upscale dining venture from chef Stephen Gillanders—his third, after successes in Pilsen (S.K.Y.) and the South Loop (Apolonia). Situated on the second level of the market, the space allows diners to feel the overflow of energy—all while taking in sights of the open kitchen from any of the chef’s counter seats or tables surrounding it. What’s the crowd like? You’ll likely encounter fans of Gillanders’ other establishments, alongside visitors to the city who have caught the recent buzz about the cooking here. What should we be drinking? Jelena Prodan oversees a thoughtful, global wine list, with a focus on small producers. After-dinner sips are a finale in their own right, thanks to several high-end options (from 23-year-old single malt to Galant des Abbesses, a spiced wine from France). Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Guests can choose between an à la carte and 11-course tasting menu—you’re in excellent hands with either. For the latter, buckle up for exciting arrivals like the Savory Pastry Basket (featuring black truffle biscuits and green garlic madeleines) or the wagyu arrachera (with green apple kosho and polenta elote). Don’t miss a la carte dishes like the kombu cured fluke or Queen Crab Arroz Caldo (with crunchy garlic and green chili butter—an order inspired by Chef’s Filipino heritage that is also available on the tasting menu). Do save room for dessert—pastry chef Tatum Sinclair heads up sweets here, which are as whimsical as they are smart. Consider the Black Marble Pavlova, with house-made “Dippin’ Dots” and flavors of guava, lychee, and black sesame, or the Warm Canele Cruller, with Okinawa black sugar and citrus. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The team here is welcoming and knowledgeable. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? With the din of the market below you and expertly fashioned courses before you, low key vibes meet high-caliber dining. That marriage makes an evening here all the more special—come with a pal or plus one who will appreciate those kinds of fun twists throughout the experience. \" - Nicole Schnitzler
