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"Stepping into the always-buzzy Five Points spot, I’m hit with sizzling woks, lively table conversation, and plates heaving with spicy, textural dishes. The la zi ji—chicken thighs battered and fried to an almost shattering crisp—and gai lan, a snappy oyster-sauce-and-shallot stir-fry smoked over wood and finished with schmalz, are signatures, while a whipped shrimp-and-chicken toast on pan de mie alternates between a garlic-ginger tiger vinaigrette and a mustard gastrique. Chef-owner Tommy Lee embellishes Chinese classics with unexpected global techniques, and the menu reflects both those innovations and a reclamation of Denver’s fraught Hop Alley history; the restaurant has also earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand." - Esther Tseng