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"Perennially booked weeks ahead, this lively room rewards persistence with inventive, can’t-miss plates: the sea vegetable taco’s uniquely wonderful texture, crispy crackling, and a rich veal-and-marrow tartare. Save space for the now-iconic cheese tart—dense, slightly sweet, and ultra-creamy—dreamed up by chef Hugo Candeias during lockdown. Staff, even when slammed, are eager to talk through flavors and pour spot-on wine pairings, so pick their brains between bites." - Abigail Malbon