"At COYA, the kitchen honors Peruvian classics while striking a balance between high-technique twists and subtlety. Even when dishes veer from tradition, they're executed well. Ceviches like the salmon Nikkei—salmon in celery juice, ginger, and wasabi tobiko—as well as the Buri Ahumado (smoked amberjack, crispy kombu, pomegranate, and aji rocoto) are Peruvian-style seafood at its best, but the veal ribs with sesame and pickled radish offers a reason to stray toward meat, too." - Jenna Scatena