Shuya

"After closing his Astoria restaurant two years ago, Shuya Miyawaki has set up a new shop, Shuya (517 Third Ave., nr. 35th St.), serving bouncy ramen with a signature speckle owing to a portion of whole-wheat flour in the dough. For duck tsukemen, they are cut thick and arranged into a bed for rosy slices of duck breast and half a marinated egg. Dip and slurp it all from a bowl of caramelized poultry jus. The noodles shine in a light broth of chicken and clam spiked with yuzu, but the best part of the experience is the presence of Chef Shuya calmly boiling ramen and arranging bowls of soup from behind the marble bar."