
54

"Originally a late night hangout and consistently lauded for its Cantonese fare, this Chinatown staple, Great NY Noodletown, has been going for more than 40 years (minus a brief six-month closure for a refresh in 2022), and while it closes earlier these days, it still delivers consistent, reliable roasted meats, excellent carryout, and terrific noodles. Order the standard-setting chow fun with moist, marinated morsels of beef dotted throughout — and make sure to get the version with gravy; the dish is generous with Chinese broccoli, and if you skip it, get a side of the vegetable to add some green to your table. Wonton noodle soup is excellent here, with overstuffed dumplings floating in a clear, heady broth. Char sui’s sweet-salty marinade has just the right balance, the pork is as juicy as you’d want, and it’s great on its own, but I usually make sure it shows up in the wonton soup. The shrimp roll comes with two pieces and is an airy, crisp appetizer option that pairs well with soup. On weekends it opens at 9 a.m., making it a less slammed Chinatown option when dim sum lines form; the early morning atmosphere is calm and convivial, a worker trims beans at a restaurant table to prep for the day, and regulars reminisce over favorite meals with the manager as they pick up takeout orders." - Missy Frederick