"Tucked away in Capitol Hill’s Melrose Market mini-mall, this spot’s appeal is less about reinvention than about a particular vibe. Owner Ahmed Suliman serves comfort food influenced by Arab cuisines — he will be the first to tell you he’s not reinventing the wheel — but the restaurant’s extensive and eclectic wine list, expertly curated by Marc Panineau of Cantina Sauvage, helps define the experience. Regulars come for mussel toast and a glass of chilled red, to chat with Suli and Marc, and to lounge in what feels like a vaguely pan-European wine shop with good Wi‑Fi — and if you aren’t a regular, you’ll want to be. — HC" - Harry Cheadle