New Napa Barbecue Spot Stateline Road Smokehouse Is Finally Here | Eater SF

"After two years of planning, renovations, and permitting delays, I watched chef Darryl Bell, Jr. and partner Jeremy Threat open this Kansas City barbecue–inspired, chef-driven smokehouse on Thursday, August 8 in an airy, bright former auto repair shop. At a preview, shiny mini sheet pans arrived with tender Black Angus beef brisket, meaty baby back ribs, pulled pork butt, brisket burnt ends, free-range half chickens, three kinds of pickles, kale salad, macaroni and cheese, and banana pudding; the meats are cooked with chef-like precision on custom 1,000-gallon Moberg drum smokers (made in Texas by a man named Sonny, which Bell paid $4,000 each to have approved as kitchen equipment), and Bell logs every batch—tracking the pieces of cherry, oak, and hickory used—so the flavor stays consistent. The upscale quick-service spot combines professional service led by Threat (another Bouchon alum) with Napa touches like a wine list featuring Caymus, House of Brown, and Turley and cocktails such as gin-and-tonic slushies, frozen espresso martinis, and sangria. Sides are thoughtful twists on tradition: a signature mix of collard greens and Rancho Gordo heirloom Mayocoba beans, a savory slaw studded with purple cabbage, jicama, and carrots, and kale salad greens from Meadowood’s farm; Sundays bring gospel music and cornbread as a nod to enslaved people’s traditions. The space feels different from many barbecue spots—indoor plants, a kitchen sink filled with cold beers, and a cozy umbrella-ringed patio create a welcoming, make-yourself-at-home vibe rather than a “tough guy” atmosphere." - Maria C. Hunt