Portland’s Best Restaurants and Bars, Spring 2025 | Eater Portland

"Akkapong Earl Ninsom is the restaurateur behind several stars in Portland’s culinary universe, but Langbaan — his supper club within Northwest Portland’s Phuket Cafe — is the brightest. It’s no wonder Langbaan won the James Beard award for most outstanding restaurant — in the entire country — in 2024. Constantly changing tasting menus pull inspiration from regions, time periods, and styles of dining throughout Thailand’s culinary history, from a deep dive into Bangkok’s Chinatown to a survey of Southern Thai cuisine. A few dishes are constants: Jewels of cara cara orange mingle with plump shrimp and peanuts, cradled in a betel leaf with fish sauce caramel, while a crispy rice cup supports Hokkaido scallop, coated in a sweet coconut cream. Thoughtful, creative natural wine pairings come from sommelier Dana Frank. Every meal ends with a dessert from pastry chef Maya Erickson, one of the city’s finest." - Katherine Chew Hamilton