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"Pizzaiolo Sami El Sabawy first made a name in the Roman pizza world at the iconic slice joint Pizzarium (also on this list). But it’s the thin crust, wood-fired personal pizzas he makes today that attract diners to Torpignattara in eastern Rome. Named after the Roman phrase meaning “to do something continuously,” A Rota lives up to its name; once you try the impeccably crisp pizza and golden fritti, like supplì and battered squash blossoms, you’ll keep coming back for more. El Sabawy specializes in a hyper-thin, low-hydration dough that he rolls out with a pin before baking at a lower temperature for longer than its Neapolitan counterpart. The result is a shatteringly crisp base, sturdy enough to support both classic and creative toppings without losing its integrity. The traditional margherita is a lesson in balance, with bright tomato sauce, fior di latte, and fragrant basil, but don’t skip Sami’s specials, like April’s stuffed pizza filled with chard, potato, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and ham. Must-try dish: Try the classic margherita to understand Sami’s style, then go for the seasonal special." - Katie Parla