"Not yet two weeks old, Bronson’s Burgers is named, not after movie star Charles Bronson or rapper Action Bronson, but supposedly after a dog. It’s a project of Rivers & Hills Hospitality, the outfit behind Kimika and Wayla, though this place bears no resemblance to either. The burger dubbed “classic” ($12) is a compact affair, with a great bun that sits up high, and a relatively thick patty that’s been expertly cooked so that it’s darkly seared on both sides. Trouble is, the meat lacks flavor. Two other defects plague it: The slice of cheddar sweats like a student taking a test, and the caramelized onions command too much attention, making each bite sweet. The fries ($3) are better than average, and don’t miss the root beer float ($5.50)." - Robert Sietsema
