"Though the name implies otherwise, it was a very good idea for sommelier and owner Alex Burch to open his wine-focused restaurant with chef Colby Rasavong at the helm. Burch is a wine professional with time logged at restaurants around town like Bastion, while Rasavong was most recently chef de cuisine at Audrey. Located in the sanctuary of a former church, the menu is delightfully irreverent and pulls in flavors representative of Rasavong’s Laotian heritage using classic French techniques: a delicate crepe is stuffed with scallops blanketed in a nam prik blanquette and topped with a lacey tuile, while a cheeseburger pithivier is on offer on the late night menu (which is available til 1 a.m.). All are paired expertly with wines chosen by Burch; a particularly lengthy list of wines by the glass is ideal for those who like to taste the rainbow. —Ellen Fort" - Jackie Gutierrez-Jones, Ellen Fort