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"After merging with Greenpoint’s Pan Pan Vino Vino, this Mexican-Vietnamese favorite has downsized into a small, lively spot that’s a coffee shop and bakery by day and, at night, a streamlined take on its former Bushwick-era self with mostly new dishes and a few returning hits. The once-gnawable confit duck necks now appear as “Vietnamese tamales,” with duck meat studding the masa and a banana leaf wrapper lending a compelling, almost-floral flavor (they can be made with bok choy, though the menu leans heavy on animal proteins). The fish sauce–glazed ginger chicken is tender and great for a solo diner, and the sidecar of chicken broth is the secret star—dip a spoonful of rice into it for the most restorative bite of the night. Berkshire pork skewers come slightly smoky with an herbal edge, and while flavors skew savory, a side of lettuce for wrapping adds welcome freshness. Best for meat eaters catching up over a light dinner with a few glasses of wine (bottles range from $50 to $150), the space is small with many seats at the bar, so it’s better for pairs or small groups; it feels lively without being overly loud. The meal starts with nước chấm, salsa macha, a bright gingery hot sauce made with facing heaven chiles (milder than the name suggests), and pickled vegetables—mix and match to your liking, and the restaurant sells bottles of its hot sauce if it becomes your favorite." - Bettina Makalintal
Creative Vietnamese with French twist: duck confit, pho, house-made sausage