
3

"At the Mess Hall restaurant incubator in Northeast, I watched a 2019 James Beard Award finalist stab a pizza peel into a portable wood-burning oven set just outside an open garage door while, in adjacent rooms, a Michelin-starred chef flipped tiny cuttlefish in a frying pan, a Rammy Award finalist ladled gumbo, and another chef sprayed foie gras foam into a cocktail — a gritty, flexible space clearly built to host large pop-ups and chef previews." - Gabe Hiatt