"During a recent meal at Otway, an envelope pusher of a restaurant in Clinton Hill, a server ferried over a dessert plate of yeast semifreddo, a healthy-sounding combination that recalled bean burgers or kale smoothies. The kitchen makes an ice cream base out of cream and butter, blends in fresh yeast and dark, malty Vegemite, freezes the mixture in a disc-shaped mold, lets it partially thaw during dinner service, and tops it off with huckleberry puree and a rye cookie. The color is tan. The texture is denser than gelato. And the flavor is a dead ringer for foie gras. I asked the waiter whether there’s liver in the dessert. She shook her head. I continued eating, slowly, and then furiously." - Ryan Sutton