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"A younger brother to next-door izakaya Tsubaki, Ototo in Echo Park is transforming into a Japanese 7-Eleven for one night on October 31, recreating convenience-store classics like fluffy, crustless egg salad sandwiches and onigiri stuffed with mayo tuna (guests are welcome to come in costume and early arrival is encouraged since the evening is walk-ins only); last year it even transformed into the eponymous diner from Netflix’s Midnight Diner. Beyond its pop-ups, Ototo’s James Beard Award–winning sake program and irreverent, frequently changing menu of Japanese bar snacks give it main-character energy: diners sign themselves into an egalitarian waiting list for dishes like fluke sashimi spiked with ponzu and limey yuzu kararin, okonomiyaki topped with fluttering bonito flakes, and a two-handed filet-ototo-fish sandwich. The sake curation is deeply intentional with tasting notes and knowledgeable staff offering pairing suggestions, the warm, softly lit space includes a semi-private alcove for eight to ten people, and the bar often provides the best spot for frequent pours and impeccable vibes." - Rebecca Roland