"This two-year-old restaurant on the far Upper West Side boasts of its proximity to Columbia University, whose students and staff make up a good proportion of the clientele. The menu is a lighthearted journey around China, including stops in Sichuan, Hunan, and Beijing. From Hunan comes this dish of sheets of compressed tofu cut into diamonds, slicked with sesame oil, and dotted with hot pickled chiles. It’s served at room temperature, so you may regard it as a species of salad." - Robert Sietsema