"One of London’s best-known Indian chefs Rohit Ghai opened this impressive venue at the end of 2018, replacing was once another famous Modern Indian: Vineet Bhatia’s Rasoi (and later VBL). Alluding to themes of countryside, wildlife, and game hunting, Kutir means ‘a small cottage with thatched roof in the middle of a forest’ — a description somewhat at odds with the chintzy townhouse location in Chelsea, its elaborately printed wallpaper, heavy gilded mirrors, and artfully painted tiles. Any presuppositions are turned on their head when Gujarati dhokla arrive with apple slices and an entourage of salad leaves, a combination that works magnificently; and deep, dark venison cooked in mustard oil is paired with a decoratively scrunched-up paratha. Kashmiri lamb rogan josh, with an intriguing back note of stone flower spice, is served with Bihari-style mashed purple potato chokha; and jackfruit kofta startles with a tomato-onion sauce of a breathtaking depth of flavour." - Sejal Sukhadwala
